The chance to live a dream

Every foodie out there has a dream. Something special they'd like to have happen. Me, I've had several dreams out there. To make my site a success, to have Ina Garten adopt me, to have the chance to be a part of America's Test Kitchen..you know, little dreams like that. December 1, 2004. One of my dreams was about to come true. Only I didn't know it at the time. The final class in my food writing course given by Boston University was to be held at the studios of America's Test Kitchen. It was the main reason I took the course in the first place. I knew ATK's studios were in Brookline but I didn't know where for sure. About three weeks before my class, I actually found out where they were and visited the studios for a book signing, but I left rather quickly - book signings at ATK attract a large number of people, and neither I nor my fiancee could stand the huge crowd. But at least I got a chance to see the studios, and know where my class would be held. And had the chance to briefly meet Julia Collin, who had a brief conversation about her unmistakable shoes with my fiancee. Julia told us that she had a reputation around the test kitchen for doing anything for a new pair of shoes.... My class assembled at the ATK studios on the assigned day. At 6 PM, ATK host and Cooks Illustrated editor Christopher Kimball and test kitchen director Erin McMurrer walked into the library where we were seated, and began talking to the students. For the next hour, the class shot all manners of questions at the two of them, as they explained how it took nearly 10 years for America's Test Kitchen to get on the air, how the show was formatted, how they arrived at their conclusions, and generally what made the staff of the show tick. The people who work for ATK are there because they love good food. And they like sharing their idea of good food with others through the show, and through their publications. And sometimes, it took quite a while to get to a conclusion as to what was the perfect dish. One of the handouts they gave to the class that evening detailed just how much work went into testing each dish. Each timea particular dish is prepared, extensive notes are made as they adjust and tweek each dish in an attempt to make it perfect. The example they gave the class, Tangy Barbecued Chicken, went through 24 separate tests, each preparation noting what they did differently, what extra ingredient was added, what ingredients were removed, how long each was cooked, what temperatures they used...it was (and is) quite a list of steps taken to achieve the perfect barbequed chicken. 7 pages of outline, it's a fascinating look into the hard work that these dedicated people do to make the average cook happy. About an hour into the class, after showing us the promo reel for the show that is sent to PBS stations trying to entice them into carrying the show, Kimball looked at the class, and asked us if we were ready to cook. Um, excuse me? We're going to COOK? In AMERICA'S TEST KITCHEN? You couldn't have held me back if you tried. The class assembled in the test kitchen, and divided into groups of two. Half the class was assigned molasses cookies, the other half buttermilk biscuits. Each group had a slightly different recipe for their assigned item, and the goal was to try and tell which group had prepared the recipe that was the final recipe reached through exhaustive testing. My partner, a full-time BU culinary student named Jennifer, and I set out to make our biscuits. We spent the next hour or so making our biscuits and chatting about our goals for the class - unlike myself, this was Jennifer's first class in the series. When the biscuits and cookies were done baking, each group of two assembled their product and presented it, and we all got to taste each batch. Jennifer and I agreed that we thought our biscuits tasted the best of what had been made, even though we'd lacked the perfect recipe, which called for melted butter to be brushed on top. Also, we had slightly undermixed our batter, which gave our biscuits a slightly rustic, flour-dusted look. Other than the melted butter, our recipe had been the standard ATK recipe for buttermilk biscuits. But we agreed, after sampling the other groups' biscuits, that the taste of ours was delicious. After everyone completed their cooking assignments, Chris and Erin treated us to Shrimp with Chipolte-Lime Glaze, answering our questions as they made the quickly stir-fried dish. After tasting those shrimp, I vowed to make them at every opportunity (and I have, too...). Chris was a little ticked that he was unable to do the recipe exactly as called for because, as he pointed out, he was using a cheap, store-bought skillet that didn't retain its heat as well as the near-AllClad that Erin was using. But I thought his shrimp came out the better of the two - it was slightly less hot from the chipolte as Erin's, although hers were delicious too. As this was the final session, for those of us who had taken the entire course, BU's rep handed us our certificates for the course, and thus made about 15 of us officially certified food writers. What that means, I suppose only the future will tell...hopefully good things here that will lead to a new, permanent career in the food writing field. The chance to see what goes on at ATK, and to have the privledge of cooking there, was a once in a lifetime experience I will never forget. The staff, including Chris and Erin, as well as the three or four other young chefs who were around to help the class out, were so friendly and helpful with everyone, and also shared their esperiences with people when asked. And i'd like to take this opportunity to say a big "Thank you!" to Christopher Kimball and his incredible ATK/Cooks Illustrated staff for making a bunch of foodies feel welcome in their midst. I don't know if I would ever be able to work there, though. The folks that do are dedicated, hard-working professionals who truly love what they are doing and know that they're doing it for a reason. As for myself, I used to think working for ATK would be a dream job, but I don't know if i'd have the patience to do the painstaking but appreciated work that they do. But that one night in December 2004 is a memory I will cherish and hold dear to my heart forever. I had dreamed for several years of getting the chance to even SEE the America's Test Kitchen test kitchens.. Now I can say I actually got the chance to COOK in them.